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Northern Exposure: Nova Scotia, Canada attracts Hollywood heavyweights, expatriates and travelers alike

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Few places in the world evoke as much romance as Nova Scotia,Canada's fabled Maritime Province that is almost completelysurrounded by water, just east of Maine in the North Atlantic.It is here that some say Viking explorer Leif Erikson was thefirst European to land on North American soil, some 500 yearsbefore Columbus. Following the Civil War, Georgia GovernorCharles J. Jenkins lived in exile in Nova Scotia, and Scottishinventor Alexander Graham Bell spent summers at his Cape BretonIsland home and research lab, from 1885 until his death in 1922.More recently, The Scarlet Letter, starring Demi Moore andRobert DuVall was filmed here, as were scenes of the blockbusterTitanic. Many tourists set out for Nova Scotia dreaming of itspostcard-like scenery and storied past steeped in Scottish,Celtic and Acadian history. Some people who come to thisunassuming outpost are drawn to Nova Scotia as much for what itlacks as for what it has: No crowds or traffic jams, friendlypeople, fresh seafood, and a slower pace. In fact, there are two Nova Scotias. One is filled with thosewho, taking advantage of the province's proximity to New Englandand its low prices, come in the morning and leave with theevening tide. The other is a picturesque getaway, an escapeattracting the likes of Demi Moore and Jack Nicholson andcountless Americans, Europeans and Canadians seeking peace andprivacy. Many rent or own vacation homes, while some have becomeyear-round residents. Most visitors arrive in Nova Scotia by air in Halifax or fastferry from Bar Harbor, Maine. From a distant aerial view, theprovince, which is about the size of Massachusetts, Connecticutand Vermont combined, resembles a lobster in silhouette, withthe majestic Cape Breton Island forming its claws, and thesouthwestern corner forming the crustacean's tail. Imagine NewEngland 100 years ago, and you get a good sense of Nova Scotiatoday. It feels more like the British isles than part of EasternCanada. Its craggy coastline dotted with lighthouses and lushhighlands is breathtaking and forbidding, and the foggy NewEngland air gives it the veil of storybook fantasy. As one nears the shore, hues of cerulean and turquoise emanatefrom the water. Seabirds glide over stunning 19th Centurybuildings that line the waterfront, behind traditional fishingboats bobbing in the bay. You feel as though you've stepped backin time and Nova Scotia begins to look real, but no lessstunning. The area's seafaring heritage is thick in the atmosphere ofYarmouth, where the ferry arrives in Nova Scotia. A workingseaport, it is home to 8,000 souls, many of whom earn theirliving in the lumber and fishing industries, much as theirancestors did engaging in lucrative trade with the West Indies.This overlooked village is more than a place for the ferry todock. Its Main Street bustles with activity, as locals frequentits many shops, eateries and other establishments. But the center of the action is Halifax, the capital, which islinked to Yarmouth by a regular bus service. With a populationof just over 350,000 in the metropolitan area, Halifax is theworld's second largest natural harbor (after Sydney, Australia).The fascinating mix of big-city amenities and small-town charmalong with food, live entertainment, nightlife and thehospitality of Haligonians make it a unique gem of North America. Tourists and locals alike wind up in Halifax's pub district. Onany given night of the week, you'll find every type of musicfrom rock and Blues to classic and Celtic. The food is best fromthe sea--steamed lobsters or creamy chowders--and when you tireof lobster (is that possible?), ask for planked salmon, Acadianrappie pie or oatcakes, all mouthwatering local delicacies. Themusic and the food goes best with the many locally producedwines, and beers you'll find on tap at the pubs, but be sure andtry Keith's India Pale Ale, a homegrown Nova Scotian favorite. Halifax aside, Nova Scotia is best appreciated outside of thecity, where it can seduce you through its sheer natural beauty.The environment that has attracted centuries of explorers andadventurers remains an integral part of the province's life andculture. It has everything a lover of the great


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outdoors couldyearn for: golfing, fishing, hiking, mountain biking, kayaking,white-water rafting, scuba diving and surfing. Cape BretonIsland's idyllic Bras d'Or Lake (pronounced "bra door"),thousands of offshore islands and hidden coves harborgenerations of stories, mysteries and sunken ships. Nowhere is the tourist board's touted "Canada's OceanPlayground" label more fitting than on the South Shore, home tothe villages of Lunenburg, Mahone Bay and Chester. There aremore yachts, country clubs and luxury homes here than anywhereelse in Nova Scotia, which is why some refer to the area as "TheAtlantic Riviera" or "Canadian Gold Coast." Some visitors feel Nova Scotia is best in the spring, when thedazzling colors of nature awaken after the winter sleep. Mostothers say this land of simple pleasures can be equally enjoyedanytime of year. One thing is for certain. With its stunninglybeautiful landscapes and laid-back pace, the most difficultthing about planning a trip to Nova Scotia is deciding what todo: Can you picture yourself lounging on a golden sand beach,exploring quaint seaside towns, sampling urban nightlife orbuying of building your own affordable hideaway and putting downroots? No matter what you decide, Nova Scotia, is paradise,found at last. GETTING THERE Major airlines fly into Halifax International Airport;www.hiaa.ca. Airfares vary based on season and city or origin. The Cat operates a ferry service ($48-$58 per person; 2 hoursand 45 minutes) that leaves daily, mid May through October, fromBar Harbor, Maine; 207-288-3395, (888) 249-72455,www.catferry.com. Campbell's Shuttle Service provides transportation betweenYarmouth and Halifax ($40 one-way, $72 round-trip), offeringdoor-to-door service from anywhere. (800) 742-6101. WHERE TO STAY The Churchill Mansion Country Inn, R.R. #2, Yarmouth, (902)649-2818, (888) 453-5565, www.churchillmansion.com, is inconveniently located in Yarmouth close to the Ferry Terminal,and has a special Cat package. Double rooms $55-$112. A 5-staraccommodation in the Halifax area is the Sterns Mansion Bed &Breakfast, 17 tulip Street in Dartmouth; (800) 565-3885,www.sternsmansion.com; rooms $72-$240 depending upon season. WHERE TO EAT A charming eatery with a view of Yarmouth Harbor, The ColonyRestaurant at the Rodd Colony Harbour Inn, across from the ferryterminal, is a local landmark known for its Hot Lobster Sandwichand steaks. Dinner for two, with wine, about $50. (902) 742-9194or (800) 565-RODD (7633). The Old Triangle, whose owners believe in providing "food forthe body, drink for the spirit and music for the soul," receivedthe Best Pub Food Award (2005) from The Coast, Halifax's weeklyculture, arts and entertainment newspaper. Entrees $7. 5136Prince, Halifax. (902) 492-4900 RECENT REAL ESTATE PRICES (January 2006): Costs are rising, but there are still deals out there. A beautiful 14-acre lot with ocean views (off a quiet countryroad) for only $17,000, and a 1-acre rural lot within walkingdistance of a quaint riverside village: asking price: $8,600,both perfect places to build your dream home. A charming little cottage with picturesque ocean views andplenty of extras, all within walking distance of the beach for$77,000. An expansive 82-acre lot to build your dream home on nestled ona strip of land between a lakefront and the ocean for $55,800. A fully-restored coastal 4-bedroom home (an hour from thecapital) can be yours for only $60,000. A charming, historic (early 1900s) building on a nice lot whichwould be perfect for starting your new business. The cost:$24,750. A fully-furnished bachelor apartment in the city for $500 amonth, with all utilities, indoor parking, TV, microwave, bedlinens, dishes and eating utensils. Only a 10-minute walk to theferry. *All prices in US dollars. FOR MORE INFORMATION Details about living or retiring in NovaScotia are available at: www.thegloballife.net. About the author: Phillip Townsend is a nationally- and internationally-publishedfreelance writer and the author of the e-Book Passport toCanada: The Complete Guide to Living and Retiring in NovaScotia, which is available through www.thegloballife.net.

Written by: Phillip Townsend

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